I'd have to say to get an HVAC technician in for a complete cleaning, overall inspection, adjustment and, of course, solving the problem Yes, it could very well be an air-flow problem and the filter removal may have partially addressed the problem. However, if you have cooling on top, then the filter removal, possibly, revealed the problem's deeper and you have a dirty A-coil.
This, is what the air always blows through regardless of heating or cooling. And yes, it could be your humidifier if a majority of air flows through it with your setup However, your blower fan or even burners could be clogged-up or you may have a circuit board, transformer, sequencer, limiter or even igniter that's failing.
Sorry, HVAC is just a bit too complicated anymore and even the codes thrown by them are commonly just a symptom and not the cause. If the unit's never been serviced since , then it's definitely due and may have been wasting money for a couple of years. Get a digital meat thermometer. Stick it in a duct close to the furnace and record the temperature. Stick the thermometer in the return air.
Subtract the return air from the supply air, that will give you your delta T or temperature rise. Look on the nameplate inside the furnace, it will have the recommended temperature rise. Always a range such as Your delta T should be within this range. If it is way over it is probably tripping the limit switch. Try this test with the filter in and out. Often times the furnace and or ducts were never sized right in the first place and any filter will put it over the edge.
The humidifier pad generally will not effect air flow but it may cause other problems such as leaks. The flame sensor is usually held in place by a single sheet metal screw. A mild abrasive can be used to clean the debris off of the rod. Under no circumstances should liquids be used to clean the sensor and care should be used to avoid touching the sensor with your hands.
A suitable mild abrasive to clean the sensor would include a scour pad or steel wool. After the flame sensor is cleaned, it can be screwed back into its original position, the blower compartment door secured and power restored for testing. Occasionally a defective blower door safety switch can cause the furnace to stop working.
However, this fix is not common and often requires that the switch be replaced. Though some problems with furnaces can be corrected by homeowners, more complex problems often require testing circuits for electrical power, testing capacitors and evaluating the circuit board. Though lockout mode errors and resets do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, most use a simple reset procedure that involves turning power off to the furnace for thirty seconds or longer and turning it back.
The interrupted power supply clears the lockout and will allow the unit to attempt normal operation again. However, some manufacturers have different or multiple lockout reset procedures. For example, some furnaces may be reset from lockout by reducing the call for heat setting on the thermostat for twenty-thirty seconds. Furnace lockouts are not quite common, and therefore there are just a handful of furnace inspections like:.
We hope these techniques work wonders on your furnace, and it turns back to normality. You can reach out to us by mail or call us at Skip to content. Prerequisites of a Lockout Setting Lockout resetting is a complicated process to conduct.
Thus, before indulging in the process, you should ensure that the following conditions are worked out: The problem that led to the lockout is resolved. If the problem delays longer than usual, you might want to contact us. A typical dirty flame rod needing simple maintenance. As these particles and chemicals pass through the combustion process their residues are deposited onto the flame rod, starting a process of electrical insulation that eventually completely disrupts the flame signal Figure 3.
The flame rod should be cleaned with a non-abrasive material such as fine steel wool or a plastic scrub pad prior to every heating season. Using sandpaper is not advised as it etches the surface of the rod creating spaces for more undesirable material to accumulate and may leave debris that reduces signal strength.
A flame rod damaged by corrosive chemicals is a sure indication the furnace heat exchanger is in trouble too. Although a flame rod may have been thoroughly cleaned by a service technician, or even after a brand-new part has been installed, some gas furnaces may continue to lock out. As usual, the devil is in the details. Some boards will flash a red LED light eight times to indicate the flame signal strength has declined to near minimum strength, a sure indication the flame sensing system needs maintenance.
Figure 4. Severely corroded burner compared to a new one. Cross lighter is plugged with rust preventing proper flame propagation. Figure 5. Just this much debris in a cross lighter can prevent flame propogation causing failure to establish a flame signal or even a flashback rough start. Check voltage at the board Line H and Line N input terminals. Polarity must not be reversed. Gas pressure: static pressure should be around 7-in. Also, the burners must be in alignment, secure and clean.
The burner acting as the ground electrode will not conduct the flame signal if it is oxidized or if any of the cross lighters are rusty or plugged with debris see Figures 4 and 5. Retries exceeded, as we know, means the IFC tried to light the burner three times but failed. Each time an interpurge was required. However, combustion can be interrupted for other reasons and the control must respond immediately by closing the gas valve. For example, strong winds blowing across or into the vent terminals could cause a pressure switch PS to open for a few seconds, interrupting combustion.
Assuming the burners light properly, combustion is restored, and no one is the wiser. This is called a recycle. In the end, while it is possible the most expensive item in the ignition system is at fault, i.
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